Friday, 3 September 2010

New York...

Having visited New York on two previous occasions, but only for one night each time, I was very keen to return. The city has a feel about it which is both dynamic and welcoming. Obviously this is a gross generalisation but we were met with courtesy and helpfulness at every level. And having already grasped the principles behind the subway system I was keen to revisit it. Clearly subsidised (the ticket from the airport terminal to the subway proper was over twice the price of an unlimited ticket on the New York network) and it is clean, quick and efficient.
We flew Virgin Atlantic from Heathrow to terminal 4 at JFK. Having been late to check in we were unable to sit together but Lorraine had been given a front seat on the upper deck, and I was upgraded to Premium class in the main body of the plane.
After comparing notes there seemed to be little difference except there was more alcohol in the Premium Class.
Arriving in JFK 5o minutes ahead of schedule we were steeled for the immigration process which, true to past experience, took a long time. There was the long queue, with the excitement of watching people trying to casually pass other in front of them (especially on the corners) and also what strategies were (equally casually) employed to stop them!
Once we reached the front of the queue (sorry "line" - this is now the USA) we were arbitrarily assigned to an immigration desk - each with a shorter line leading up to it. Any sense of relief that there is light at the end of the tunnel is quickly dispelled when we realise that not only it is it officer changeover time, but also the people in front of us have complex immigration problems which necessitated them being escorted to a processing station elsewhere, and then the officer concerned having the need to share his problems with a colleague before feeling able to resume his post. We waited for 25 minutes watching other passengers coming to the front and being processed as we waited on. However all was over relatively quickly once our immigration official was once again working.

Our hotel was on West 24th Street, but I had misread it as West 34th street, and as we approached this address I was increasingly excited as to how close the Empire State Building was... but once I saw that supposed site of our hotel was in fact a sports shop I started to get annoyed, and on re-reading the hotel docket found that we had to walk about a further half mile to get to our hotel.
Hotel was ok - more of a dormitory for visitors than home from home, but it was clean, cool and near to the centre.
Temperature was running at 31 degrees - so it was warm!
We ate at the hotel and slept well.
On the Thursday we took a ferry to Liberty Island and paid homage to the symbol of immigration which overlooks to the entrance to New York (if you are approaching by sea.)
When built in the late 19th Century it was the tallest structure in the city - exceeding even the mighty Brooklyn Bridge, but of course is now dwarfed by the many skyscrapers.
Covered in copper, the green effect is still nevertheless striking and inspiring.

We took a subway to nearby central park and took over an hour to look over the Frick collection of pictures. Mr Frick - a steel magnate who died in the early 20th century, had amassed an impressive collection of paintings which he had left to the nation, to be exhibited after the death of his wife.
Currently staffed by a team of women of a certain age and manner, visitors are left with no illusions as to who is in charge, and who in absence of a class system based on social rank, the ability of money to talk and influence is clearly felt here.
Each room is solid, well lit, and very tastefully designed to exhibit the masterpieces. Guides (or is it guards?) stand watchfully on every corner, and the hand-held audio guides give useful information as to most of the paintings.
It is hard to imagine the building as a personal and family home - but this is what is was built for.
Lorraine and I differed as to which picture we liked the best - Lorraine opting for a Renoir, (two girls in the park) while I went for the Bellini "St Francis in Ecstasy".
The Frick Collection buildings also keep a wonderful set of washrooms, which in themselves almost justify the admission charge.
An evening meal at a Mexican Food equivalent to Subway (choose your base - nachos, rice, tortilla etc , then your beans, salsa, filling and topping) rounded off the day.

The New York skyline is still evocative of emotions, and the sheer size of the buildings generates a sense of awe. We feel there is so much more to see and do here that more visits are a likely event.


2 comments:

  1. Dom has just told us about this blog and we went to it straight away. Loved hearing about NY and look forward to any further instalments.
    Love, M&D

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